Discovering the Top Lots of the Fine Watches Auction

On June 30 at 4:00 p.m., Cambi Casa d’Aste will open the doors of its Milan location for the Fine Watches auction, a carefully curated selection of watches spanning over half a century of history: from timepieces from the early post-war period to the great icons of the 20th century, right up to the most sought-after models in contemporary watchmaking.

Domenico Cecconi, an expert in the Wristwatches department, tells us about some of the most notable lots:

“Today I’d like to present six of the most extraordinary lots in this auction.

Let’s start with this magnificent Breguet Type XX. “Type XX” was the military specification introduced by the French Air Force in 1954 for chronographs intended for its pilots. At that time, Breguet received an order for approximately 1,500 pieces, and this watch is one of those delivered for service. What makes it unique is the absence of the Breguet signature on the dial—a deliberate choice designed to ensure maximum readability during missions. On the case back, however, we find military engravings and records of the servicing performed over the years, evidence that this watch remained in active service alongside its pilot from 1954 through 1982. A true piece of military watchmaking history.

Let’s now turn to an extraordinary Audemars Piguet “Disco Volante.” The nickname derives from its distinctive circular shape, which indeed resembles a flying saucer, while still featuring lugs. This is an exceptionally unique watch, particularly due to the refined construction of its case: yellow gold with a platinum bezel, embellished with emerald-cut sapphires set in a baguette pattern. It is a bold and visionary piece, surprisingly modern for a watch from the 1950s, yet at the same time evoking the elegance of Art Deco lines. This is a timepiece that is sure to captivate Audemars Piguet collectors.

Let’s move on to Lot 95: an extraordinary Patek Philippe Carré in white gold. This is the only known example in this configuration, featuring diamond hour markers. The watch comes with a particularly fascinating history: it once belonged to one of Milan’s most famous figures, Massimo Moratti. Engraved on the case back is a dedication—“With love, Massimo and Milly”—which refers to the famous couple, Massimo and Milly Moratti. The watch also comes with an archival extract.

A true milestone in the history of Patek Philippe is the Calatrava Ref. 2526, the first automatic model produced by the Maison. In addition to its historical significance, it features an extremely rare technical characteristic: a double-fired enamel dial with glitter lettering. These dials were particularly complex to produce and resulted in a very high defect rate during manufacturing. Even more surprising is the fact that this example, dated 1956, still retains its original box and warranty—an exceptionally rare condition for a watch from that era.

Let’s now move from a classic Calatrava to one of Patek Philippe’s most prestigious complications: the perpetual calendar. Before us is a magnificent Patek Philippe Ref. 3940 in white gold. This model is highly prized by collectors, both for the sophistication of its movement and for the understated elegance of its white gold case, which conceals its complexity behind a simple, timeless appearance. The watch comes with its original box, warranty, and dual case back, exactly as it was delivered in 2006. Another point of interest is its auction starting bid, set at just 45,000 euros.

We conclude this selection with the top lot of the sale: our extraordinary Cartier Crash Paris. Produced in a limited run of just 400 pieces, the Crash is one of Cartier’s most iconic and recognizable creations. Its distorted and asymmetrical lines, inspired by the Surrealist aesthetic, have made it one of the most sought-after watches in contemporary collecting. In recent years, this model has achieved exceptional results at major international auctions, fetching prices in excess of $400,000. We are offering it in our catalog with a starting bid of 150,000 euros.

To see these six extraordinary timepieces and many other fascinating lots in person, we look forward to welcoming you to our exhibition on Friday, June 26, Saturday, June 27, and Monday, June 29, from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., at our Milan location.”

Discover all the lots on cambiaste.com!