Fine Jewellery: Queen Margherita of Savoy’s Necklace at Auction

The upcoming Fine Jewellery sale on 18 November is set to be one of the most captivating events of the season. More than three hundred carefully selected lots, originating from private collections and prestigious consignments, form a catalogue rich in rarities, stories, and refined goldsmithing.

Among them stands out a jewel of exceptional historical and symbolic value: lot 79, an extraordinary necklace featuring old-cut diamonds and natural pearls, preserved in its original case signed by Filippo Chiappe. This detail is of particular significance, as the presence of the original Chiappe case—together with the stylistic features and provenance of the jewel—has enabled Vogue to report its attribution to Margherita of Savoy, the first Queen consort of Italy.

Crafted in Genoa by the renowned jeweller Filippo Chiappe, the necklace is a superb example of late nineteenth-century Italian goldsmithing. The piece combines gold with silver overlay, old-cut diamonds, and natural pearls, harmonised within a refined yet imposing structure, perfectly aligned with the aesthetic sensibilities of the Savoy court.

The central pendant, which can be detached and worn as a brooch, showcases the remarkable versatility typical of ceremonial jewelry of the period, conceived to adapt to the varied requirements of court protocol.

Margherita of Savoy (1851–1926), a symbol of elegance and royal grace, was among the most beloved queens of the Italian people. Endowed with refined and modern taste, she built over time a jewellery collection that continues to captivate historians, collectors, and enthusiasts of high jewellery.

The necklace, preserved in its original velvet and leather case, fits seamlessly within this sophisticated aesthetic universe.

Discover all the lots!